北疆的秋天，新疆10天自由行
第1天<br class='-Day-' /><p><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">拿起單反的近五年時間里，我走過許多美麗的地方，而最美莫過于北疆之秋。 </span><br style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">南迦巴瓦的雪山曾令我歡呼，納木錯的雪后神湖曾令我感動，黃山的壯闊云海曾令我心悸，但我最愛的還是白哈巴-喀納斯-禾木的大美秋色。 </span><br style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">因為南迦巴瓦的雪山太羞澀，終年云霧繚繞，從不輕易露出真面目； </span><br style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">而納木錯若是失去了光照，便要黯淡了它的神光； </span><br style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">至于黃山，要邂逅它大美時刻實在太辛苦，我二上黃山，前后整整六天，多數(shù)日子大霧迷蒙，至今未得窺探它全貌。 </span><br style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"><span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 30.6000003814697px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">而喀納斯的秋色是如此平易親和，陽光燦爛時明媚動人，陰云密布也不失華彩。淡妝濃抹總相宜，這是所有美景的共性，但誰也沒有喀納斯這樣慷慨，好幾百平方公里的土地上處處是風景，而最美的風景又往往在路上，山川河流，牛羊植被，無不動人。國家地理雜志推它做“中國秋色第一”，這個狀元郎，它當之無愧。</span><div class=""><p class=""></p><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/amMLB1JT.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/ohMT7KcU.jpg" height="399" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; color: rgb(0, 167, 225); font-family: Arial, 'Droid Sans', 'Microsoft YaHei', 'Hiragino Sans GB', STXihei, simsun, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 32px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"></div><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/1429885224659p19jlskgi51i4n1umi1hmv1g6e1bn11i.jpg-display_g"><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/710.jpg"><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/710.jpg"><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/710.jpg"><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/710.jpg"><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/710.jpg"><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></div><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第2天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">胡亂睡了一覺，吃罷早餐，我們一行20人在領隊子文的帶領下分乘5輛越野車，向北疆進發(fā)，開始北疆自駕行。<br>烏魯木齊往西北至克拉瑪依沿途無甚景觀，只有間雜著辣椒地的棉田，除此之外就是一望無際的大戈壁。越野車沿著筆直的公里。<br>向西向北一直開，都是如此，一百公里與另一百公里長著同樣的面容，好幾個小時過去，變化的只有地名。<br>當我們被單調的景觀弄得疲乏不堪時，公路兩邊開始時不時出現(xiàn)小規(guī)模的雅丹地貌，這種地貌的出現(xiàn)說明這里已經進入克拉瑪依的地界。而我們的第一個目的地烏爾禾魔鬼城也即將出現(xiàn)。<br>“雅丹”原是維吾爾族語，意為陡峭的土丘，是一種典型的風蝕地貌。在極旱地區(qū)的干涸湖底開裂后，風沿著這些裂隙吹蝕，將原來平坦地面發(fā)育切割成壟脊和溝槽。有些地貌狀似城堡，大風襲來時，煙塵滾滾，鬼哭狼嚎，故稱魔鬼城。而烏爾禾魔鬼城是其中的一個，曾被《中國國家地理》“選美中國”活動推舉為中國最美雅丹的第一名。</font></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547234" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547234|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547234" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547234|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; 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display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span></div><div id="img27547237" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547237|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547237" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547237|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/rRaj1u6V.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/rRaj1u6V.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span></div><div><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><br></font></span></div></div><font color="#000000">?<span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></font><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第3天<br class='-Day-' /><p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">9月26日，6點鐘起床，繁星滿天，來不及細細欣賞，便登車直趨<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">白哈巴</span>。<br>領隊說，必須在中午13點前趕到白哈巴景區(qū)大門，只有這樣，才有機會自駕白哈巴到<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">喀納斯</span>的景區(qū)。<br>昨日的午餐是方便面，今日的早餐是馕加涼水。攝影團星夜兼程，風餐露宿，就是這么苦逼。但想一想遠方的美色正在招展，華麗的秋天正在呼召，還有什么理由把時間消耗在吃飯、睡覺之上？此時此刻，世界上已經沒有比錯失美景更大的罪行了！<br>一路向北飛奔，直將黑夜開出晨光，右手邊的地平線漸漸亮堂起來，霞光開始隱現(xiàn)，預告著壯麗的日出即將上演。<br>天色又更加鮮亮了，萬道霞光已經迫不及待地從黑暗里雀躍而出。<br>向東是一片大草原，并無特別好的前景，但日出不等人，就這么將就吧！<br>來不及選機位，更缺乏前景，怎么辦？這個難不倒我們，此刻沒有比人與車更好的最好前景了。<br>東方彩霞織天，初升的朝陽打敗了最后的黑暗，宣告白晝統(tǒng)治的到來。草原的風，靜止了；高天的霞，退潮了；遠處的山，清晰了。晨光下可以眺望到極遠處，幾只放養(yǎng)的駱駝在山丘下悠閑地漫步。<br>回身看看西面，暖色的陽光把山丘和草地都染成了金色，要知道白天的它們看起來都是灰頭土臉的模樣。多么輝煌燦爛的陽光，你是最偉大的燈光師！</font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547238" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547238|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547238" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547238|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><br></font></span></div><div id="img27547238" class="" data-likeid="27547238|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547238" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547238|12859138" data-referencecategory="1"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/XaRwtnxq.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/XaRwtnxq.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></div><div id="img27547238" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547238|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547238" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547238|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><p class=""><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/uszKVe0V.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/uszKVe0V.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></p></div><div id="img27547239" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547239|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547239" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547239|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><p class=""><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/1KgXn7rq.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/1KgXn7rq.jpg" height="399" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></p></div></div><font size="3">也不知道開了多久，漸漸地，可以到了金燦燦的白樺樹，先是形單影只的獨木，之后是三五成群的團伙，再后來大路的兩邊排得整整齊齊，全都是白樺樹。在<a href="http://you.ctrip.com/place/xinjiang100008.html#ctm_ref=gs_290605_2341751_100008_l" target="_blank" rel="external nofollow">新疆</a>，綠洲的出現(xiàn)意味著城市就在眼前，這座城市就叫<a href="http://you.ctrip.com/place/buerjin1010.html#ctm_ref=gs_290605_2341751_1010_l" target="_blank" rel="external nofollow">布爾津</a>。<br>布爾津并不大，僅有兩萬人口，但卻是我見過最干凈明亮的城市。滿城都是金燦燦或綠油油的樹木、藍幽幽或紅通通的屋頂，白晃晃或黃澄澄的墻身，還有亮堂堂的馬路，小而精，美而純，在灰蒙蒙的荒漠里突然邂逅這樣的小城，仿佛掉進童話世界一般不真實。<br>抵達布爾津時是11點，饑腸轆轆，隨便找了家清真餐館，要份丸子湯，就算把早餐連同午餐一起打發(fā)了。<br>出了布爾津，依然是草原，只是牛羊漸多，時有成百上千的牛羊群沿著公路做集團軍行動，偶爾還會擋住車輛的去路，這是牧民在轉場。<br>游牧民族逐水草而牧，他們會根據四季的特點，驅趕牲口選擇新的牧場。而轉場本身也成了北疆移動的風景。<br>轉場途中擔任運輸任務的是駱駝，它們的負重能力遠勝于牛馬。一個典型的哈薩克族牧民家庭轉場需要至少4峰駱駝，而隊列也是有講究的。第一峰駱駝負責運被褥，有時婦女兒童也騎在它身上。隨后的駱駝則運衣服、日用品、食物、氈房。男人們則騎著馬，趕著大群的牛羊緊跟在后面。<br></font></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><p class=""><font size="3">鐵列克提大峽谷下靜靜流淌的便是中哈界河——阿克哈巴。這個河谷曲折而行，東南有個安靜的小村莊，它有個動聽的名字，叫做<a href="http://you.ctrip.com/sight/kanasi816/25275.html#ctm_ref=gs_290605_2341751_816_sid25275_2_l" target="_blank" rel="external nofollow">白哈巴</a>。<br>村莊很小，站在村口，一眼就能望到村子的另一頭。村子遍布著尖頂木屋，這些原木壘砌的小屋錯落有致，房前屋后用簡單的柵欄隔離，卻幾乎看不到門鎖。鳥雀們飛落于草垛，覓食時旁若無人。人們可以隨便出入，就像回家一樣自由。院落蓬門大開，任爾出入，連狗都無拒人之意。<br>白哈巴其實是個混搭的詞匯，白是漢語，哈巴是蒙語——落差大的小河。這里的原住民是圖瓦人，也充滿了混搭的意味。圖瓦的祖先是蒙古人，然而圖瓦人卻與維吾爾族一樣使用突厥語系的語言，而非蒙古語。<br>數(shù)十年前，為了邊境安全，部分哈薩克族人被遷至該地，與圖瓦人混搭而居。<br>這是個以混搭為主旋律的村莊，這種混搭的氛圍到了秋天，進入了激動人心的高潮。<br>雪山下混搭著森林，小河邊混搭著村莊，褐紅色的草甸混搭著樹木，火紅的楊、金黃的樺這些落葉樹木中混搭著四季長綠的松樹與杉樹。<br>它們五彩斑斕，流光溢彩，晴天時是熱烈的油畫、陰天時是清雅的水彩畫。白哈巴是色彩的圣殿，是光影的天堂，是自然界中最宏大的敘事詩。這些顏色染遍了天與地，也染遍每一個旅人的心情。<br></font></p><p class=""></p><p class=""></p><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547241" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547241|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547241" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547241|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/w3XaP0TV.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/w3XaP0TV.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></div><div id="img27547242" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547242|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547242" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547242|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/3kEohRkr.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/3kEohRkr.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></div></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547243" class="w_img " data-likeid="27547243|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547243" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547243|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: auto; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/zCmAJKNV.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/zCmAJKNV.jpg" height="500" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div></div></div><font size="3">在攝影人的眼中，秋日白哈巴小村的的晨與昏無疑是最美的。<br>斜陽之下，金色的公路蜿蜒穿村而過，牛羊漫步其間，遠處映襯<a href="http://you.ctrip.com/place/aletai427.html#ctm_ref=gs_290605_2341751_427_l" target="_blank" rel="external nofollow">阿勒泰</a>山的皚皚雪峰，構成一幅完美的油畫。<br>趁著天時地利，攝影團發(fā)揮了一不怕苦二不怕累的戰(zhàn)斗精神，拍完日落拍星空，拍完星空拍日出，幾乎全天候作戰(zhàn)。<br>26日日落非常壯觀，一如每一個晴天。<br>次日，日出前出現(xiàn)的魚鱗云令人陶醉，但是令人心碎——這種透光高積云直接阻擋了陽光對白哈巴的布施。<br>我們在拍攝點上頂著接近零度的低溫，蹲守了3個小時。<br>苦苦廝守的癡心并沒有換來上天的憐憫，一點寶貴的光線都沒有，而我?guī)缀跻粺o所獲。<br>民諺云：“天現(xiàn)魚鱗云，不雨也風顛”。魚鱗云乃是冷空氣到來前，高層氣流不穩(wěn)定的昭示，而未來多日的天氣一如民諺預告，非陰即雨，裹挾著我們的心情，進入沉郁的低潮，仿佛一群饑腸轆轆的吃貨，就坐于饕餮盛宴的桌前，卻遲遲得不到開飯的許可！<br></font><p></p><p class=""></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547244" class="" data-likeid="27547244|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547244" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547244|12859138" data-referencecategory="1"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/6V4ObBer.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/6V4ObBer.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></div><div id="img27547245" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547245|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547245" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547245|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><p class=""><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/CdL2DuGV.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/CdL2DuGV.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></font></p></div></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547247" class="" data-likeid="27547247|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547247" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547247|12859138" data-referencecategory="1"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/8vse5m8r.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/8vse5m8r.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></div></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547248" class="w_img " data-likeid="27547248|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547248" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547248|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: auto; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/EN9sxezW.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/EN9sxezW.jpg" height="399" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p></p></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><font size="3"><br></font><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></div><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第4天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p></p><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/b6REY62r.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/b6REY62r.jpg" height="399" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div><font size="3">為什么要越野？<br>因為山路在那里<br>樺樹林在那里<br>因為草原在那里<br>雪山在那里<br>秋天在呼喊<br>我們如何無動于衷？<br>野性在燃燒<br>血里的蠻荒因子在蠢動<br>我們要越野！<br></font><p></p><p></p><div><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/HoySrYtW.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/HoySrYtW.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span></div><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div><div id="img27547251" class="" data-likeid="27547251|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547251" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547251|12859138" data-referencecategory="1"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/eFf6TRVr.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/eFf6TRVr.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span></div></div><div><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><br></font></span></div><span style="color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: Arial, 'Droid Sans', 'Microsoft YaHei', 'Hiragino Sans GB', STXihei, simsun, sans-serif; font-size: 16px; line-height: 32px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">?<span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></span><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第5天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">9月28日<br>一進入九月，<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">喀納斯</span>就登基了。<br>造物主揮霍出各種色彩為它加冕——這是秋色之王。<br>處處都是打翻了的調色板，鋪成了一萬平方公里！<br>是的，整整一萬平方公里！<br>就是這么大的手筆！就是這么氣焰囂張！<br>上帝??！您是不是太過偏愛喀納斯了！<br>每一株樹都是藝術大師，都是發(fā)了瘋的梵高。<br><br>各種落葉植物積蓄了一年的功力，全都在這一刻完全釋放。<br>它們分娩出無數(shù)種金色，菊金、黃金、琥珀金、玉米金……<br>金色家族的所有成員無所不至，鋪天蓋地呼嘯而下。<br>金色統(tǒng)治了喀納斯，金色是喀納斯的成吉思汗。<br>然而，如果只有金色，喀納斯未免太單薄太寂寞了。<br>如果只有金色，喀納斯不足以成為秋日的王者。<br>于是，造物主又調來各種色系的軍隊，又將群山萬壑占領了一番。<br><br>只有喀納斯的水，不肯放棄它摯愛的藍色。<br>為了捍衛(wèi)自己的疆域，喀納斯的水系們與群山的倒影展開了爭奪戰(zhàn)。<br>光影游走，風云變幻，水面一會兒是水的諸藍，一會兒是山的五彩。<br>最激烈的戰(zhàn)爭不發(fā)生在喀納斯湖，那里湖面極廣，水系取得了壓倒性的優(yōu)勢，<br>而發(fā)生在喀納斯三灣：<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">神仙灣</span>、<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">月亮灣</span>和<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">臥龍灣</span>。<br></font></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">我去三灣的時候，天公不作美，又是陰又是雨。<br>即少了陽光的參和，又少了河間霧的助陣，色彩的戰(zhàn)爭總缺乏點熱烈的味道。<br>即便如此，喀納斯的灣依然明艷動人。<br>隔著車窗欣賞簡直是一種犯罪，沒有什么比徒步更能美好的了。<br>經驗豐富的領隊說，最美的風景并不在這里，而是在路上。<br>對，他說得太對了！<br>然而我已經無法在越野車里忍耐了！<br>仿佛大海里的航海者聽到了海妖塞壬美妙的歌聲！<br>飯在鍋里，人在床上，荷爾蒙已經上腦，哪里聽得進勸。<br>管他的，要走就得走，從<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">月亮灣</span>一路走到了<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">臥龍灣</span>。<br><br>站在山頂上，月亮灣像一顆翡翠，隨湖光山色的變化而變化。<br>幾個由S型的河曲蜿蜒河谷，猶如月落林谷。<br>水平如鏡，波瀾不驚，更顯其靜謐，無人不陶醉。<br>月亮灣的靜美，只要看上一眼，便會終身難忘。<br><br>在白樺林漫步，在幽藍波光中感受著秋磅礴的激情。<br>這是多么美妙的時候，任有生花的妙筆，又怎能把它形容？<br>只想靜靜地走，一直走，直到醉倒在這秋的天堂之中。</font></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"></p><div id="img27547253" class="w_img img_main img_fl" data-likeid="27547253|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547253" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547253|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 590px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/LYWikJnW.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/LYWikJnW.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></span></div><div id="img27547254" class="w_img img_side img_fr" data-likeid="27547254|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547254" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547254|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 250px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/ggEwNBPs.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/ggEwNBPs.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></span></div><p></p><p></p><p></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547255" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547255|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547255" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547255|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/NymJftgW.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/NymJftgW.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><div id="img27547256" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547256|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547256" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547256|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/jR3WGmHs.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/jR3WGmHs.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547257" class="w_img img_main img_fl" data-likeid="27547257|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547257" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547257|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 590px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Q9K99daW.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Q9K99daW.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></span></div><div id="img27547258" class="w_img img_side img_fr" data-likeid="27547258|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547258" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547258|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 250px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/nrsnB6Bs.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/nrsnB6Bs.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></span></div></div><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547259" class="w_img img_main img_fl" data-likeid="27547259|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547259" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547259|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 590px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/TK9A3Y4X.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/TK9A3Y4X.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></span></div><div id="img27547260" class="w_img img_side img_fr" data-likeid="27547260|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547260" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547260|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 250px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/p2QNvQvs.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/p2QNvQvs.jpg" height="318" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 380px;"></span><p class=""><font size="3" style="display: inline !important; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Vjx1WJXX.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Vjx1WJXX.jpg" height="399" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></font></p></div></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">外出旅行，人們往往奔著目的地去尋找風景，常常無暇發(fā)現(xiàn)途中的美麗。<br>然而從喀納斯三灣到禾木鄉(xiāng)的公路，根本無需人們去發(fā)現(xiàn)美景。因為這條路實在是光彩照人，連盲人都能感受到——不用看，光是聽一聽行人的歡呼與贊嘆，就可以想象大美秋色。<br>北疆的風光太好了，眼睛在天堂，身體卻在地獄。<br>經過好幾天折騰，我已是又累又乏。聽過從喀納斯景區(qū)大門的賈登峪到禾木鄉(xiāng)要開一個小時的山路，我暗自竊喜，這樣可以乘隙打個盹。<br>剛剛迷糊過去，便聽到一陣驚呼聲，睜開眼一看，這下再也合不上眼了。<br>原以為看過白哈巴、喀納斯，見到其他風景，應該會有“曾經滄海難為水，除卻巫山不是云”的感懷，然后邂逅禾木公路，我就又成了色里花癡了。<br>哪里都沒這里美！黃山？不行，霧太多了！西藏？不行，沿途全是石頭山！九寨溝？不行，地盤太小了！<br>哪里都沒這里美！處處是風景，連公路都美得這么過分，一路上都是180度的回頭彎，簡直讓人懷疑，這條路的設計師是美院畢業(yè)的。<br>這些評價聽起來對其他景區(qū)并不公平，很有始亂終棄的味道，反正那一刻我就是這么意亂心迷情有獨鐘。</font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547262" class="w_img " data-likeid="27547262|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547262" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547262|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: auto; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/sBfdpAps.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/sBfdpAps.jpg" height="473" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></span></div></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p></p><div id="img27547263" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547263|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547263" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547263|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/YUWrRtQX.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/YUWrRtQX.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><div id="img27547264" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547264|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547264" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547264|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/vcDEikit.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/vcDEikit.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><p></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p></p><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/1ukRLdKX.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/1ukRLdKX.jpg" height="471" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">禾木鄉(xiāng)是我們此行遇到最大的村莊，到處都是充滿圖瓦風情的木屋小院。<br>然而一下車，我哪里都不想去，只想走回頭路——我想在那條路上徒步，哪怕只有一段也好！<br>同行的波波說，不如去美麗村吧！<br>美麗村？沒聽說過啊！很美么？<br>當然啦！美麗村嘛！<br>然后，我就像掉到風流場的花花公子一樣，馬上把禾木公路忘記了。<br>去美麗村價格不菲，坐摩托過去，來回一百元，其實也就是單程二十分鐘的山路。<br>這里風景獨好，盡管沒有陽光。于是，我又獨自徒步回去。<br>一路上走走停停，三公里的山路，我走了差不多三個小時，終于在天黑后，回到了禾木。<br>至于這段路的風景如何，還是看照片吧——一如同行的攝友行客所說：如果美麗的東西都能用語言表達出來，我就不用相機了。<br></font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547266" class="w_img " data-likeid="27547266|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547266" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547266|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: auto; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/xN35d5ct.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/xN35d5ct.jpg" height="477" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></span></div></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p><font size="3"><br></font><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></p><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第6天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">28日夜晚星光燦爛，經過連續(xù)兩個陰天，本以為應該還我們個大晴天。?然而，我們又被晃點了。一覺起來，陰云再一次籠罩了大地。?所謂觀景臺其實是個小山包，山腳下是白樺林，有小溪在林間流淌，更遠些便是禾木鄉(xiāng)，此刻全都隱身在暗黑之中。?禾木鄉(xiāng)依然在沉睡，只是等候日出的旅人們已經上路了。?天未亮，包圍著鄉(xiāng)村的小山便開始起霧，起初只是絲絲縷縷，如小段哈達點綴山林；漸漸地這哈達越織越大，沿著山坡舒展開來。??陰云似穹廬，籠蓋四野，只是在正東方向微微留出個角，給守候日出的人們一點有聊勝無的微茫希望。??天色照常亮起來，光線把村莊、森林、溪流以及大地的一切從黑夜手中解放出來，但日出終究還是落了空。這希望本無所謂有，接受了倒也不沮喪。?眼瞅著看不到咸蛋黃躍出山尖的一刻，守候日出的游客大多散去，各奔前程，剩下的多是扛著腳架的攝影發(fā)燒友。?“好天氣是留給初學者的，壞天氣是留給大師的?！毕胍幌霐z影大拿說的話，權且當做精神勝利的武器吧，沒有日出就拍霧氣彌漫的村莊唄。?目之所及，哪里都是潤潤的色調，仿佛能擰得出水了。</font></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">最有意思的還是那些霧，濃濃地，低低地，霧像游手好閑的浪子到處東游西蕩，撫弄一把山腰，撩撥一下溪頭，調戲一番森林。?被戲弄的還有我們，想要捕捉這些精靈沒那么容易，往往等到我們笨拙地扳開腳架構完圖，霧卻悄悄地開溜了，取景器費勁地追上去，霧又不動聲色地遁身了。</font></p><p class=""></p><div><font size="3" style="display: inline !important; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/45KhEXDX.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/45KhEXDX.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></div><div><div id="img27547268" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547268|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547268" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547268|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Anrv7Q6t.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Anrv7Q6t.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div></div><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"></p><div id="img27547269" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547269|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547269" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547269|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/7F8JzHxY.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/7F8JzHxY.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><div id="img27547270" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547270|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547270" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547270|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><div id="img27547271" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547271|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547271" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547271|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/DXPV1A0t.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/DXPV1A0t.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span><p class=""></p></div><div id="img27547272" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547272|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547272" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547272|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/9fx9tsrY.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/9fx9tsrY.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div></div><p></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"></p><div id="img27547270" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547270|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547270" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547270|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/FyemUkSt.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/FyemUkSt.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"></p><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/cQVznckY.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/cQVznckY.jpg" height="473" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">天要下雨，霧要耍人，隨它們去吧。?干脆什么都不做，那就看看美景聊聊天吧。遠處的某個小山隱隱約約露出點陽光，難道陽光就要開始今天的布施么？如聞戰(zhàn)斗號角一般，一秒鐘前還打得火熱的小團伙立馬做鳥獸散，各自找尋中意的機位去了。陽光沒等來，倒是迎來了一場雨。?占著有沖鋒衣庇護，又在雨中支持了半個鐘頭，依然無法感天動地。?守不到日出云開，只好下撤。?去山腳下的白樺林找點小景拍拍也是好的。細雨中的白樺沒有陽光下那種金光閃閃的熱烈招搖，像是把陽光都融化進每一片葉子里似的，經過雨水洗禮的白樺樹，樹葉更加色彩斑斕，樹干更加潔自光亮，挺中顯秀，安安靜靜又野性十足，宛如純潔秀美的牧家姑娘。?我獨自在白樺林中徜徉了，許久不愿離去。處處都是風景大作，哪里挪得動道啊。??????再流連，終究還是有道別的時候。?時間不知不覺就到了中午，想起早晨才喝了一杯奶茶，不能不回村子尋覓午餐。?禾木的餐飲和大多數(shù)景區(qū)一樣昂貴，一碗撈不出牛肉的牛肉湯面20元起，但一點都不影響我的心情。在露天里喝著暖烘烘的熱湯，遠處雪山白云繚繞，樹林還在為秋天演奏著最后的樂章。所謂秀色可餐，有這樣迷人的風景佐餐，有比這更愜意的事情么？?</font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547274" class="w_img " data-likeid="27547274|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547274" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547274|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: auto; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/J8CNP5Mu.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/J8CNP5Mu.jpg" height="473" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></span></div></div><font size="3">當我們的車輛終于離開禾木時，兩天多來不曾開恩放晴的天空突然云破天開，奇妙的間隔光四處游走，山間氤氳四起，把這山水弄出種種光影絢爛的神異大美。?我們無不嘆惜：要是過去的兩天有這樣的光線，我們該拍出多少大片來??！好吧，就當這是喀納斯特別留給我們的念想吧，為了它，我們勢必還要重來的！<br></font><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">這一日，我們從<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">布爾津</span>驅馳可可托海。<br>而前一個下午，攝友團還在布爾津縣城西北的<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">五彩灘</span>等過日落。<br>我們從禾木趕到五彩灘時，已經是北京時間19點30分了，當?shù)匾呀S昏。<br>太陽被厚厚的云層擋著，有晚霞但看不到日落了，除非出現(xiàn)奇跡。<br>殘酷的現(xiàn)實反復告訴我：不要相信奇跡，只要還有相信，就無所謂奇跡。<br>五彩灘有限的幾個觀景臺當時還有機位，但沒有日落的低光照，巖石就無法出現(xiàn)色彩斑斕的奇景，我就果斷放棄。<br>在景區(qū)西面的不遠處有吊橋，橋下是流向北冰洋的<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">額爾齊斯河</span>。河水倒映著遠處的云彩，可以拍黃昏剪影，于是我就找個位置，專注剪影。<br>在這以顏色多變著稱的雅丹景區(qū)，我只拍了幾張景區(qū)外吊橋的照片，連走馬觀花的時間都沒有留給那些精致的石頭們。<br>想想也是醉了，木有辦法，我們只為攝影而來，旅游倒在其次。</font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547275" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547275|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547275" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547275|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><div id="img27547276" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547276|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547276" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547276|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/frk0gWeY.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/frk0gWeY.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/MJ2dJPFu.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/MJ2dJPFu.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3"><br></font></p><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p>?<span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></p><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第7天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p><font size="3"><img src="file:///C:/users/administrator/appdata/local/360chrome/chrome/User%20Data/temp/710.jpg"></font></p><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/h1JqbH8Y.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/h1JqbH8Y.jpg" height="399" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div><font size="3">一路風景迷人，一如既往。<br>下午16點，我們抵達可可托海界內。<br>可可托海，沒有可可，也沒有海。可可托海是蒙語“藍色的河灣”，而在哈薩克語里又成了“綠色的叢林”。<br>就在可可托海鎮(zhèn)的郊外，我們被這“藍色的河灣”、“黃綠色的樺樹叢林”勾走了三魂七魄。<br>天氣大好，心情也大好。<br>在公路邊某個不足一公里的<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">額爾齊斯河</span>段上，我們居然拍了近4個小時，直到夜幕降臨。<br>這一切，完全在計劃之外。<br>只因為光線很好，連路旁的景觀也醉得人們走不動道了。<br></font><p></p><p></p><p></p><div id="img27547278" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547278|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547278" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547278|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/OiqDCzzu.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/OiqDCzzu.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span><p class=""><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/kB8R5s10.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/kB8R5s10.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span></p></div><p></p><p></p><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/RTP4xjtu.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/RTP4xjtu.jpg" height="473" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div><font size="3">走不動道的除了人，還有我的器材。<br>這一北疆的行攝之路真是一場靚爆鏡之旅，器材（特別是玻璃片）損失極大：<br>先在<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">魔鬼城</span>把手機屏弄碎了；<br>之后在白哈巴遺失了快門線、帽子與右手套；<br>在喀納斯湖區(qū)壓壞了海大0.9中灰漸變方片；<br>在<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">神仙灣</span>失蹤了135L鏡頭的遮光罩；<br>而在這里，海大3.0中灰方片、海大0.9中灰方片、肯高單鍍偏振鏡連著濾鏡接圈齊齊跌進了湍流不息的<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">額爾齊斯河</span>，但愿某天我能夠在北冰洋邊上發(fā)現(xiàn)它們。<br>當然，彼時的我還不能預料，一天以后，我將在<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">額爾齊斯大峽谷</span>丟失三腳架，所幸失而復得；兩天以后，將在木壘<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">胡楊林</span>摔壞眼鏡片。<br>哎喲，美到失魂落魄了，我歷次旅行的損失加起來都不及這次大。</font><p>?<span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></p><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第8天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">10月1日，國慶<br>這一天，我們前往可可托海主景區(qū)<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">額爾齊斯大峽谷</span>。<br>額爾齊斯河從這里發(fā)源，奔流西去。<br>沿著小河對峙連綿的花崗巖群峰，巖壁縫上生長著白樺樹、青松和西伯利亞云杉。<br>整個峽谷都是這樣的景致。<br>只是天氣不給力，萬里陰云，而且是毫無層次的灰云。<br><br>為了爭取按原計劃在當日趕到千里之外的木壘<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">胡楊林</span>景區(qū)，只能壓縮拍攝時間。<br>領隊與團友們商定，在這龐大的5A級景區(qū)只能拍攝短短1小時。<br>但是往景區(qū)深處一走，大家立馬改了主意，管他娘的，拍過癮再說。<br>真是計劃不如變化快，我的這幫攝友們大都沒帶干糧，而景區(qū)又少見食品補給點，許多人都是在忍饑挨餓的狀態(tài)下專注于攝影，沒到最后約定的時間，堅決不離開景區(qū)！他們都是鋼鐵猛士！<br>至于我嘛，做為始終沒法脫離低級需求的普通人，果斷中途脫隊覓食，也是饑不擇路，到處流竄，終于在某個密林深處，邂逅賣羊肉串的牧民……<br>木有辦法，他們只為攝影而來，而我總忘不掉紅塵俗事。<br></font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547281" class="" data-likeid="27547281|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547281" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547281|12859138" data-referencecategory="1"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><font size="3"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/obwhYcU0.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/obwhYcU0.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></font></span></div><div id="img27547281" class="" data-likeid="27547281|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547281" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547281|12859138" data-referencecategory="1"><font size="3"><br></font><p class=""><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Tudur4nu.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/Tudur4nu.jpg" height="234" style="font-size: medium; border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></p></div></div><br><p></p><p><br><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></p><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第9天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">10月2日<br><br>新的一天，在疲憊中開始。<br>為了在日出前趕赴木壘原始<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">胡楊林</span>，我們從可可托海出發(fā)，開了11個小時的夜車，終于在7點前抵達目的地。<br>此時的天還沒亮，攝友們大都疲乏不堪，紛紛就地打起瞌睡。<br>看著天一點點地泛白，我有些焦急，準備獨自進林子拍照。<br>領隊反對，說這里有狼出沒，去年還曾遇到。<br>狼？還能拍野生動物豈不大好？但領隊態(tài)度堅決，我只好作罷。<br>等到大家緩過勁來集體行動時，我早就迫不及待了，很快就走到了最前頭。<br><br>從停車點到胡楊林子，還有一兩公里的路要走。<br>路遇一位西安美院的老師，姓陳，也是去看日出的，他很熱情地向我介紹這片林子的情況。他原以為這里的胡楊林應該像額濟納或<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">輪臺</span>那樣，有河流、有沙漠、有遮天蔽日的林地，然而昨日踩了點之后才發(fā)現(xiàn)，這里只是一片戈壁，胡楊林大都散亂地孤立著，往往隔上十好幾米甚至更遠才有同類，更多的是紅柳、沙柳這類的灌木。<br>戈壁里有條踩出來的土路，沿著路走了十幾分鐘，胡楊樹漸漸多起來，在黑暗中影影綽綽地，只是路西的胡楊樹更多些。</font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547283" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547283|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547283" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547283|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/qMVHTWO0.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/qMVHTWO0.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div><div id="img27547284" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547284|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547284" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547284|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/W4CVkPgv.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/W4CVkPgv.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span><p class=""><font size="3" style="display: inline !important; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/tnj8NGH0.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/tnj8NGH0.jpg" height="473" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></font></p></div></div><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">考慮到日出，我就往東邊去了。東邊的胡楊稀稀落落地，往往隔著幾十米才能遇到一株，但大都低矮，最高也不過三米，樹姿的造型也簡單，與我心中的期待還是有很大差距的。<br>我在偌大的荒野中轉來轉去，也沒有找到特別理想的日出拍攝點。<br>不知不覺，太陽已經躍出了地平線，而我仍在曠野里東游西蕩嗎，直到我發(fā)現(xiàn)一株枯樹。<br>時間摧毀了它的樹冠，歲月?lián)舸┝怂能|干，留下個古老的樹洞，而此時的太陽正在它的腳下升起。<br>剎那間，我腦洞大開，太陽穿過洞將會是什么樣子？<br>帶著這個念想，我果斷向附近的土坡飛奔，找好位置，升腳架，上長焦。<br>當太陽在樹洞里穿行時，一個老妖精顯身了，它束著古老的發(fā)髻，還有長長的眉毛。它伸出手，攫取一顆明珠，試圖往嘴里送去。<br>幾秒鐘后，這個明珠卻溜走了，溜上了天空，將大地照了個透亮。<br>胡楊林終于揭開了神秘的面紗，我們可以仔細將它打量了。<br>太陽升起后不久，朝云便消失了，只剩下一片干干靜靜的晴空。<br>光線漸強，陽光也刺眼起來，最佳的拍攝時機已過。<br>我正準備撤退。晴空卻又悄悄地起云了。<br>開始只是一兩片，之后是遮天蔽日般涌現(xiàn)，配合著胡楊樹那鬼斧神工般的形態(tài)，從取景器里看上去，更使你感到大自然的壯美。</font></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">回到景區(qū)大門旁的旅館，吃罷了午飯，才想起早飯還沒吃過呢。<br>這個念頭一起，人就感覺累壞了。回到客房，外衣都懶得脫，撲倒在床上立馬就睡了。下午五點半，鬧鐘響起才醒過來，發(fā)現(xiàn)自己居然還趴著，連睡姿都沒變過。<br><span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">新疆</span>的六點相當于內地的四點鐘，攝友們集合好了就往胡楊林趕，拍日落去。<br>此時的景區(qū)熙熙攘攘的，許多人往景區(qū)里走去，而更多的人都在往回走，浩浩蕩蕩的隊伍，一眼看去，足足有上千人之多。此時正是國慶假期，見怪不怪了。<br>回來的游客大都在抱怨：這是什么破地方啊，不來可能后悔，來了絕對后悔！<br>他們說的一點都沒錯，這里絕對不是適合普通游客玩賞的地方。<br>此時烈日當空，之前的云朵早就失蹤了。在頂光直射下，每一株胡楊林都是灰頭土臉，幾小時前金燦燦的的葉子，現(xiàn)在土黃土黃的。<br>胡楊樹下，人聲鼎沸，大人呼，小孩鬧。風吹過，煙塵滾滾，遠遠看去，活像一片混亂的戰(zhàn)場。<br></font></p><p style="margin-top: 20px; padding-right: 30px; padding-left: 30px; word-break: break-all;"><font size="3">直到七點后，大多數(shù)游客都走光了，太陽西斜。<br>此時景區(qū)突然搖身一變，仿佛寶物抽走了破舊的罩子，叫人眼前發(fā)亮。<br>在光線的斜射下，胡楊葉子像點著了火一般，發(fā)出金黃或火紅的光芒，微風吹過，閃閃發(fā)亮。<br>云彩又重新集結了，在天空游戲起來。<br>在這些云彩的帶動下，胡楊樹又重新煥發(fā)了生命一般。有的似武士授徒，有的像夸父追日，有的如術士斗法，簡直成了魔幻世界。</font></p><div class="img_box" style="width: 850px; position: relative; overflow: hidden;"><div id="img27547286" class="w_img img_divide img_fl" data-likeid="27547286|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547286" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547286|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: left; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/0E1mezav.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/0E1mezav.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span><p class=""></p></div><div id="img27547287" class="w_img img_divide img_fr" data-likeid="27547287|2341751" data-likecategory="1" data-shareid="27547287" data-sharecategory="1" data-referenceids="27547287|12859138" data-referencecategory="1" style="margin: 10px 0px 0px; position: relative; z-index: 1; width: 420px; overflow: hidden; max-width: 850px; float: right; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/ctd_img_bg.png?t=f66e6c7e79c4a01fc72dcea1cd02e424);"><span style="margin-right: auto; margin-left: auto; background-image: url(http://pages.c-ctrip.com/gs_static/travels/img/img_loading.gif?t=127ae5a836800c9d6e9b2b8aee9439e5); background-attachment: initial; background-size: initial; background-origin: initial; background-clip: initial; background-position: 50% 50%; background-repeat: no-repeat;"><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/wWJyGrB0.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/wWJyGrB0.jpg" height="234" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px; height: 280px;"></span></div></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></p><br></p><hr class='-Content-' />第10天<br class='-Day-' /><p><p><font size="3">第10天，也就是旅程的最后一天，我們又早早起床，再次等來胡楊林的日出。<br>然后，踏上返回<span style="border-bottom-width: 1px; border-bottom-style: dotted; border-bottom-color: rgb(0, 134, 180); padding-bottom: 2px;">烏魯木齊</span>的路途，北疆之行也就這樣結束了。<br></font></p><p></p><p class=""></p><div><font size="3"><br></font></div><div><img data-original="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/2fqM9j3v.jpg" src="/upload/OutlinkImg/2015/04/28/2fqM9j3v.jpg" height="473" style="border: 0px; display: block; max-width: 850px; overflow: hidden; margin: 0px auto; max-height: 600px;"></div><font size="3"><br></font><p></p><p></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font></p><p><font size="3"><br></font><span id="sceditor-end-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span><span id="sceditor-start-marker" class="sceditor-selection sceditor-ignore" style="line-height: 0; display: none;"> </span></p><br></p>
